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History

A BRIEF HISTORY

In the second half of the 19th Century, the Brockley area became built up, as farmland was sold off and streets of houses crept further south. Hilly Fields was only saved from development by the protests of local residents. A committee of influential people was formed, including Octavia Hill (new window), the philanthropist and co founder of the National Trust.

In her article “Space for the People” (1883) Octavia records that when visiting tenants in Deptford one day, she noticed a vase of freshly picked flowers. On being told they had been picked on Hilly Fields, she set off to visit the area the same day and as a result became instrumental in raising subscriptions to save Hilly Fields from being built over. The list of subscribers ran to thirty-one pages and includes William Morris and F D Mocatta, a well-known Jewish philanthropist. Generous benefactors included the Duke of Westminster and many of the City Livery Companies, such as the Goldsmiths’, Fishmongers’ and Leathersellers’.

They managed to raise some of the purchase money, and other financial contributions were made by the London County Council and the Greenwich and Lewisham Boards of Works. Part of the site (the northern end) was occupied by a brick works, part was owned by the Corporation of London who had leased it to a developer for building purposes and part was glebe land of the parish of Lewisham. The southern end of the park had originally been fields, part of Bridge House Farm.

After lengthy and difficult negotiations the site of the park was bought and improvements were made by the London County Council.  The site of the brick works was drained, levelled and marked out as a cricket pitch. A bandstand was also provided. The park was formally opened on 16 May 1896.

Sir Arthur Arnold, chairman of the LCC, which had spent £4,685 on laying out the grounds, opened the park to the public on 16th May 1896. Sir Robert Hunter, in his capacity as chairman of the committee set up to save Hilly Fields, attended the opening ceremony and paid tribute to Octavia Hill’s hard work. ‘So well-known to many of them by reason of her public- spirited labours, in the course of her work in Deptford’.

The Dedication To the Public of Hilly Fields, Brockley, by Sir Arthur Arnold, Chairman of the Council, took place on Saturday, 16th May, 1896. (document will be uploaded in the near future)

From “Dedication to the public of Hilly Fields, Brockley by Sir Arthur Arnold, Chairman of the Council on Saturday, 16th May 1896” Lewisham Local Studies Archives 352.944 BRO

“…Taking the statistics compiled with such care by Mr Charles Booth, it will come as a surprise to many to learn that in the county of London there is more poverty south than north of the Thames, while the district lying along the river from Greenwich to Rotherhithe is the second poorest in London…..dealing with blocks of about 30,000 inhabitants, Mr Booth finds that the two poorest are situate, one between Blackfriars and London-bridge, and the other by the riverside at Greenwich, which includes Deptford. The first with a population of 33,000 has 68 per cent of poor; the second with 31,000, 65 per cent, whilst there is no similar block in East London which has more than 59 per cent. ….All the greater importance therefore attaches to the preservation of such a fine open space as this, which is only a mile distant from some of the most congested quarters. But Deptford is not the only district which will reap benefit, for the more immediate neighbourhoods of Brockley and Lewisham, although comparatively open at present, must ere long be covered with building to accommodate the ever increasing population of the this mighty London. Moreover, the character of the Hilly Fields gives a wide range to their influence upon the health of the metropolis. It has long been recognised that it is especially important to keep the hilltops round London free from buildings, so that the purity of the air blowing in from the country may thus be preserved….”

The summit of Hilly Fields stands 175 feet above sea level, and the park commands very good views. A local man remembering the park in its early days wrote, “Here promenaded all the smart folk of Brockley and Lewisham and to go home from church without crossing the breezy hill to see the sights and get an appetite for the Sunday joint was quite unheard of!”

The red brick building in the park was the West Kent Grammar School, built in about 1885, which later became part of Brockley County School. Further north, beyond the tennis courts, various buildings and Nissen huts were erected by the Army during WWII. Prefab bungalows were also built along the Adelaide Avenue and Montague boundaries of the park; they were still there in 1960s. The park did suffer some bomb damage during the war.

In 1971 Hilly Fields was transferred from the Greater London Council to the London Borough of Lewisham.

LITERARY REFERENCE TO HILLY FIELDS
Edith Nesbit, a contemporary of Octavia Hill, walked to Hilly Fields in Brockley near New Cross from her home in Elswick Road, Lewisham and referred to the area in “Wings and the Child”. ‘Once there were nightingales that sang in the gardens in Loampit Hill. Now it is all villas. Once the Hilly Fields were hill fields where the children played, and there were primroses.’

Hilly Fields
Bits and pieces from the archives

From “The Kyrle Society, Report for the Open Spaces Branch, 1893” Lewisham Local Studies Archives, SM1/9/10 (Motto of the Kyrle Society, founded 1877 ‘For Bringing Beauty Home to People’)

“ Hilly Fields…..The land preserved is probably second in importance to no open space in the neighbourhood of London, being as the County Council long since reported the finest site for a park round London, and being moreover situated but a short distance from one of the most densely packed quarters of the Metropolis.”

From Report of the Joint Committee appointed to secure the Preservation of the Hilly Fields, Lewisham as a Public Park” Lewisham Local Studies Archives 352.944 BRO

“The Hilly Fields, Lewisham, as finally preserved to the public…is situate on rising ground on the edge of the densely populated neighbourhood of Deptford, and was pronounced by a Committee of the London County Council, which considered the matter some years ago, to constitute the most eligible site for a park in the neighbourhood of London”
From Borough of Lewisham, Minutes of Proceedings of the Council

Suffragettes:


(1906-1907) 20th November 1907, p,20 minute 13:
notes a letter from the LCC “with reference to this Council’s letter of the 7th instant, and stating that all practicable steps had been taken to prevent disturbances at public meetings held on Sundays at Hilly Fields, and that the Commissioner of the Police of the Metropolis had also been communicated with in order that he might render such assistance as might be necessary”

Band performances
On12th October 1910 Councillor Jerrard moved that band performance at Hilly Fields be moved to start and end one month later in the year. The issue dragged on…

On 15th January 1913 Councillor Wm Jerrard and Councillor J. Baldon moved:

“That representations be made to the London County Council with a view of fixing the period of band performances in the open spaces of the Borough (where such performances take place) one month later in the year than at present, so that the period may be three months from 9th June to 9th September, instead of from 9th May to 9th August as at present. That the suggestion be communicated to the Deptford Borough Council the residents if that Borough being interested so far as Hilly Fields are concerned”

On 7th May 1913 the Council noted the reply from the LCC

“stating that as the proposal involves the lighting of the bandstand and it would be practically impossible to maintain order at the several places after dark, the Council regret that they did not see their way to make the alteration suggested.”

Anti-social behaviour?

7th May 1913

“The Committee have received a letter (21st April) addressed to the Mayor from the Hon. Sec. of St. Bartholomew’s C of E Men’s Society, forwarding a copy of a memorial signed by members of the Lewisham Federation drawing attention to the misuse in the evenings of the Hilly Fields and other open spaces as a real source of danger to boys and girls and asking him to use his influence in having these open spaces better lighted and better controlled. The Hilly Fields is an open space under the control and management of the London County Council”.

Memories of Hilly Fields

This email was sent via the Lewisham council website by David Pearce, on
08 December 2008, at 19:21:12:

I was surprised to see a site for Hilly Fields. I enjoyed my visits
before and during the war (WWII). My mother took me there when I was
young but later I went on my own or with friends. There was not much to
do, nothing provided, we made our own amusement. We climbed the trees
(watch out for the ‘parkies’, they wore brown uniforms!). I remember a
Cafe where they served a drink of Ginger beer and Eldorado Ice cream. We
played ‘roly polys’ down the hill great fun. A drinking fountain, mum
told me not to use the cup and I took my own. When the war started we
went to the far end and saw the 2 Ack Ack guns, they were moved later.
The area down to Adelaide avenue was given over to allotments, Dig for
Victory. The railings around the park were taken away for munitions. A
Barrage Balloon was set up close to Hilly Fields Cresent, we chatted to
the Airmen, it was moved south when the doodle bugs came. I remember
only one bomb crater to the area to the west of the park, it filled with
water. My friend Douglas won a scolarship to Brockley County School I
see it is the Prendergast school now. My girl friend  who later  became
my wife (has since died) we both enjoyed the park! I lived from 1928
until 1952 at 10 Brockley Gardens so it was only a short walk to the
park. I now live in Seaford, E Sussex, wonder if I would recognise the
old place now?

13 Comments

  1. […] from Hilly Fields, the hill-top park in Brockley, south east London, near where I live, which was saved from developers in the late 19th century by philanthropists including Octavia Hill, one of the founders of the […]

  2. […] of the 19th century. What is now the beautiful Hilly Fields park used to be fields, which were only saved from developers by activists and reformers including Octavia Hill, one of the founders of the National […]

  3. T. E. Worledge says:

    I’m surprised that there is no mention of Henry Williamson’s “A Chronicle of Ancient Sunlight.”
    The first volumes of which are set in Brockley and Eastern Road next to Hilly Fields. A truly miraculous evocation of Brockley from 1890 to 1919.

  4. Tom Moulton says:

    Apologies for the delay in replying but we’ve had some problems with the website, hopefully now resolved. We’ve only just caught up with the early volumes of Williamson’s ‘Chronicle’ but agree that they provide a remarkably detailed portrait of Brockley and Ladywell during the period you mention. We will be including some material on these novels in the future. In the meantime, you may be interested (if you haven’t already seen it) in the post on the Friends of Brockley and Ladywell Cemeteries website regarding HW and his mother, Gertrude. http://www.foblc.org.uk/

  5. Len Gribble says:

    I was born in 1952 one of the prefab’s on hilly fields nbr 6 (used to have nbr 6 painted on the tree)

    Len Gribble

  6. Angie Artis (nee Hall) says:

    I lived from birth in 1949 to 10yrs of age at 45 Montague Ave in one of the prefabs. I attended Gordonbrock primary school and I remember no central heating, ice on the inside of the window, and a fitted ironing ironing board that came down from the wall. Hilly Fields was our playground, and many happy hours were spent in the swing park there. My godfather worked as lab technician for several years at Brockley County School.We had neighbours with surnames Henley and Morris. Sadly the prefabs are no longer there. Happy days.

  7. Chair says:

    Thanks for this Angie, another former resident of the park Len Gribble was born in the prefabs, a little later than you in 1952. He was at no 6. Maybe you knew each other? You can see the footprints of the prefabs during dry summers. Do you have any photographs from the time. So far, no-one has been able to locate any images of the park during the prefab days.

    Intrigued about the fitted ironing board at your primary school. Was it in the smaller building on the corner, I think it had laundry over the door?

  8. Carol Hooker says:

    I lived at 148 Adelaide Avenue in the 1950’s from the age of 7 to 10 later moving to 85a Adelaide Avenue further down the hill nearer to Ladywell. I too went to Gordonbrock School with my best friend Diane Culver who lived in a prefab on Hillyfields directly opposite our flat.
    I often wonder what happened to her. I moved away completely out of London when I was 13 .

  9. Jane Sullivan says:

    My brother and I grew up in Chalsey Road and we played a lot on Hilly Fields. I remember during the 1950s there were prefabs along Hilly Fields Crescent as well as those mentioned above.

  10. E Irwin says:

    My family lived in Overcliff Road in the 1950’s. I started at Gordonbrock school in September 1957 and had to cross Hillyfields to get to school. I often walked home alone (can you imagine a 5 year old girl doing that today!!) – not likely! I recall the prefabs and had a friend who lived in one along the Hillyfields Cresent side. She was called Yvonne Arnold and I called for her in the morning on the way to school. Her Dad had a motorbike with a sidecar and often picked us both up from school in it.

    Hillyfields was our playground in the summer holidays. We spent happy days in the swing park where the lady in charge (Mrs Smith) would stick plasters to cut knees etc. My aunt was also an attendant in the swing park and my Dad was part of the grounds maintenance team (he retired in 1985). Truly carefree childhood times.

  11. Hilly says:

    Thanks for your lovely post.

    If you are interested there is a project called Brockley Voices…not to be confused with the choir.

    Brockley Voices is a new oral history project by the Brockley Society, which seeks to capture and share the stories and reminiscences of people living in or connected to Brockley. Several volunteers came forward following a piece in the November 2014 Newsletter which expressed a desire to preserve the memories of older Brockley residents before they are lost forever. Following several meetings, a core group of volunteers with a range of recording, interviewing and archiving skills has distilled a number of potential options into a coherent idea.

    Our aim is to record the thoughts, feelings and memories of anyone who lives in or is connected to SE4, capturing for posterity a snapshot of Brockley in the early 21st Century. By broadening out from the initial idea of ‘reminiscence’, we hope to make the project accessible and relevant to anyone who feels they have something to say about Brockley.

    To contact us, email brockleyvoices@gmail.com

  12. Stephen Russell says:

    It was lovely to discover this website after a wet Sunday walk around Hilly Fields reliving my childhood. I was born in one of the prefabs, 48 Montague Avenue, on the 5th of August 1955. We were the Russell’s. Dad Harry and Mum Rose also my brother, seven years my senior, Martin. We lived next door to Tom and Nancy (Nan) whose surname escapes me, we were next down the hill from the Morris’s. Raymond Morris was a chum of mine, together with Tony Sutton, who’s prefab was on Adelaide Avenue. I remember another neighbour George Davis or possibly Davison and his wife, also the Henly’s, especially Ann and Christine, daughters and Richard their son, who was in the RAF. My name is Stephen Russell and I attended Gordonbrock school. My teachers names were Miss Mitchell and later Mr Widows. God bless them both. It was a great place to grow up, having Hilly Fields as my back garden, as long as you avoided the wrath of the Parkies who looked after the place in their brown suits and hats. I think we were one of the last to go. Most of the prefabs had been knocked down when we moved out to the wilds of St Pauls Cray in September 1964, a desperately sad time for a nine year old boy. Sad to see the state of the café now, also the long gone toilets, always clean and smelling of Jays fluid and carbolic soap. Just opposite were the tennis courts but no longer is the hut there where rackets and balls could be hired. Does anybody remember the mobile children’s cinema erected off the back of lorries and vans during the summer holidays?
    Lollies for 3d from the café and sledging in the Winter. Happy days indeed. Wonderful to see the Park pretty much as is was in my childhood, still loved by local residents and not under blocks of flats. Prosper Hilly Fields!

  13. Stephen Russell says:

    Slight correction to above, bit of a memory lapse on the names of my neighbours. It was Tom and Nan Morris who were next door and the Mills family in the next prefab up the hill from us. Raymond Mills, my mate and his sister Sharon. Dad was called Bonnie, he came and went a bit and I think mum was Maureen, but I can’t be sure. Really spooky to see those aerial photographs of the foundation ghosts of the prefabs. If I can get there when they are visible I could stand on the very spot where I was born! I think can recall Angela Hall (see above posting) as a smiling ginger haired school girl with plats. Sorry if I’m wrong Angie! Steve.

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